| Insulating your Existing Houston Home How Much is Enough? |
Older Houston homes are likely to use more energy than newer homes, leading to higher heating and air-conditioning bills. Allow ATEX Inspects to perform
an Home Energy Audit or home maintenance inspection on your new or exist Houston area home to start saving money from energy drains in your Houston
home. We provide thorough Energy Audits in Galveston, Katy, Spring, Richmond, Jacinto City, Pasadena, Santa Fe, Seabrook and all the greater Houston
surrounding area.
Where and How Much Insulation Is Needed In My Houston Home?
Adding more insulation where you already have some, such as in an attic, will save home energy. You can save even greater amounts of energy if you
install insulation into places in your home that have never been insulated. Which building spaces should be insulated, these might include an uninsulated
floor over a garage or crawlspace, or a wall that separates a room from the attic.
As your Houston home inspector we will include an insulation check as a routine part of an energy audit or full service home inspection. For information
about Houston home energy audits or Houston home inspection services, contact us at ATEX Inspects at 281-216-1171. State energy offices are another
valuable resource for information. An energy audit of your house will identify the amount of insulation you have and need, and will likely recommend other
improvements as well. If you don't have someone inspect your home, you'll need to find out how much insulation you already have.
This recommendation balances future home utility bill savings against the current cost of installing insulation. So the amount of insulation you need
depends on your climate and heating fuel(gas, oil, electricity), and whether or not you have an air conditioner.
How Much Insulation Does my Houston Home Already Have?
Look into your attic. We start with the attic because it is usually easy to add insulation to an attic. Look into your walls. It is difficult to add insulation to
existing walls unless:
You are planning to add new siding to your Houston house, or you plan to finish unfinished space like a bonus room. If so, you need to know whether the
exterior walls are already insulated or not. One method is to use an electrical outlet on the wall, but first be sure to turn off the power to the outlet. Then
remove the cover plate and shine a flashlight into the crack around the outlet box. You should be able to see whether or not insulation is in the wall. Also,
you should check separate outlets on the first and second floor, and in old and new parts of the house, because wall insulation in one wall doesn't
necessarily mean that it's everywhere in the house. An alternative to checking through electrical outlets is to remove and then replace a small section of the
exterior siding.
Look under your floors. Look at the underside of any floor over an unheated space like a garage or crawl spaces. Inspect and measure the thickness of any
insulation you find there. It will most likely be a fiberglass batt, so multiply the thickness in inches by 3.2 to find out the R-value (or the R-value might be
visible on a product label). If the insulation is a foam board or sprayed-on foam, use any visible label information or multiply the thickness in inches by 5 to
estimate the R-value.
Look at your ductwork. Don't overlook another area in your Houston home where energy can be saved - the ductwork of the heating and air- conditioning
system. If the ducts of your heating or air-conditioning system run through unheated or uncooled spaces in your home, such as attic or crawl spaces, then
the ducts should be insulated. First check the ductwork for air leaks. Repair leaking joints first with mechanical fasteners, then seal any remaining leaks
with water-soluble mastic and embedded fiber glass mesh. Never use gray cloth duct tape because it degrades, cracks, and loses its bond with age. If a
joint has to be accessible for future maintenance, use pressure- or heat-sensitive aluminum foil tape. Then wrap the ducts with duct wrap insulation of R-6
with a vapor retarder facing on the outer side. All joints where sections of insulation meet should have overlapped facings and be tightly sealed with fiber
glass tape; but avoid compressing the insulation, thus reducing its thickness and R-value.
Return air ducts are often located inside the heated portion of the house where they don't need to be insulated, but they should still be sealed off from air
passageways that connect to unheated areas. Drywall- to-ductwork connections should be inspected because they are often poor (or nonexistent) and lead
to unwanted air flows through wall cavities. If the return air ducts are located in an unconditioned part of the building, they should be insulated.
Look at your pipes. If water pipes run through unheated or uncooled spaces in your home, such as attic or crawl spaces, then the pipes should be
insulated.
Home Air Sealing
Air sealing is important, not only because drafts are uncomfortable, but also because air leaks carry both moisture and energy, usually in the direction you
don't want. For example, air leaks can carry hot humid outdoor air into your house in the summer, or can carry warm moist air from a bathroom into the attic
in the winter.
Most Houston homeowners are aware that air leaks into and out of their houses through small openings around doors and window frames and through
fireplaces and chimneys. Air also enters the living space from other unheated parts of the house, such as attics, basements, or crawl spaces. The air
travels through:
Since many of these leakage paths are driven by the tendency for warm air to rise and cool air to fall, the attic is often the best place to stop them. It's
important to stop these leaks before adding attic insulation because the insulation may hide them and make them less accessible. Usually, the attic
insulation itself will not stop these leaks and you won't save as much as you expect because of the air flowing through or around the insulation.
We talk about moisture control in an insulation fact sheet because wet insulation doesn't work well. Also, insulation is an important part of your building
envelope system, and all parts of that system must work together to keep moisture from causing damage to the structure or being health hazards to the
occupants. For example, mold and mildew grow in moist areas, causing allergic reactions and damaging buildings.
Insulation Installation in your older Houston Home, the Retrofit Challenges
Whether you install the home insulation yourself or have it done by a contractor, it is a good idea to educate yourself about proper installation methods
because an improper installation can reduce your energy savings.
Also, if your Houston house is very old, you may want to have an electrician check to see if:
that could cause the wires to overheat. THIS IS FOR FIRE SAFETY. The National Electric Code forbids the installation of loose, rolled, or foam-in-place
insulation around knob and tube wiring.
Adding thermal insulation to the ceiling or walls of a mobile home is complex and usually requires installation by specialists.
If adding insulation over existing insulation, do NOT use a vapor barrier between the two layers!
Attics
On unfinished attic floors, work from the perimeter toward the attic door. Be careful about where you step in the attic. Walk only on the joists so that you
won't fall through the drywall ceiling. You may need to place walking boards across the tops of the joists to make the job easier. Remember that it is
important to seal up air leaks between your living space and the attic before adding insulation in your attic.
Installing batts and rolls in attics is fairly easy, but doing it right is very important. Use unfaced batts, especially if re insulating over existing insulation. If
there is not any insulation in your attic, fit the insulation between the joists. If the existing insulation is near or above the top of the joists, it is a good idea to
place the new batts perpendicular to the old ones because that will help to cover the tops of the joists themselves and reduce thermal bridging through the
frame. Also, be sure to insulate the trap or access door. Although the area of the door is small, an uninsulated attic door will reduce energy savings
substantially.
In some Houston houses, it is easier to get complete coverage of the attic floor with blown-in loose-fill insulation. It is best to hire an insulation contractor for
this job. Loose-fill insulation must be prevented from shifting into vents or from contacting heat-producing equipment (such as recessed lighting fixtures).
Block off those areas with baffles or retainers to hold the loose-fill insulation in place.
When you stack new insulation on top of existing attic insulation, the existing insulation is compressed a small amount. This will slightly decrease the R-
value of the existing insulation. This effect is most important if the new insulation is more dense than the old insulation. You can compensate for this
stacking effect and achieve the desired total R-value by adding about one extra inch of insulation if the old insulation is fiber glass, or about 1/2 inch if the
old insulation is rock wool or cellulose.
Reflective Systems are installed in a manner similar to placing batts and blankets. Proper installation is very important if the insulation is to be effective.
Study and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Often, reflective insulation materials have flanges that are to be stapled to joists. Since reflective foil will
conduct electricity, avoid making contact with any bare electrical wiring.
Radiant barriers may be installed in attics in several configurations. The radiant barrier is most often attached near the roof, to the bottom surface of the
attic truss chords or to the rafter framing. Do not lay a radiant barrier on top of your insulation or on the attic floor because it will soon be covered with dust
and will not work.
If your Houston home's attic has NO insulation, you may decide to insulate the underside of the roof instead of the attic floor. (This option is more often
used in new houses and is described in Design Option: ATTIC VENTILATION OR A CATHEDRALIZED ATTIC). If you choose the cathedralized attic
approach, all attic vents must be sealed. Spray-foam is then often used to insulate the underside of the roof sheathing. If batts are used for this purpose,
they must be secured in a manner similar to that described below for insulating under floors. It is best to hire an insulation contractor with experience in this
type of installation for this job.
Walls
Installing insulation in the cavity of exterior walls is difficult. However, when new siding is to be installed, it is a good idea to consider adding thermal
insulation under the new siding. The Retrofit Best Practices Guide provides useful information about adding insulation when you remodel the outside of
your house. It usually requires the services of a contractor who has special equipment for blowing loose-fill insulation into the cavity through small holes cut
through the sidewall, which later are closed.
It is sometimes feasible to install rigid insulation on the outdoor side of masonry sidewalls such as concrete block or poured concrete. However, if that is not
an option, you can use rigid insulation boards or batts to insulate the interior of masonry walls. To install boards, wood furring strips should be fastened to
the wall first. These strips provide a nailing base for attaching interior finishes over the insulation. Fire safety codes require that a gypsum board finish, at
least 1/2 inch thick, be placed over plastic foam insulation. The gypsum board must be attached to the wood furring strips or underlying masonry using nails
or screws.
The first-floor band joist may be accessible from the basement or crawlspace.
Floors and Crawl Spaces
If you have a floor over a crawlspace, you can either:
Insulate the underside of the floor and ventilate the crawlspace, or Leave the floor uninsulated and insulate the walls of an unventilated crawlspace. When
batts or rolls are used on the underside of a floor above an unheated crawlspace or basement, fit the insulation between the beams or joists and push it up
against the floor overhead as securely as possible without excessive compaction of the insulation. The insulation can be held in place, either by tacking
chicken wire (poultry netting) to the edges of the joist, or with snap-in wire holders. Batts and rolls must be cut and fit around cross-bracing between floor
joists or any other obstructions. Strips of insulation may be cut off and stuffed into tight spaces by hand. Don't forget to place insulation against the
perimeter that rests on the sill plate. If you insulate above an unheated crawlspace or basement, you will also need to insulate any ducts or pipes running
through this space. Otherwise, pipes could freeze and burst during cold weather.
Reflective Systems are installed in a manner similar to placing batts. Proper installation is very important if the insulation is to be effective. Study and
follow the manufacturer's instructions. Often, reflective insulation materials have flanges that are to be stapled to floor joists. Since reflective foil will conduct
electricity, one must avoid making contact with any bare electrical wiring.
Spray-foam can be used to insulate the underside of a floor. The spray foam can do a good job of filling in the space around wires and other obstructions
and in filling any oddly-shaped areas. It is best to hire an insulation contractor with experience in this type of installation.
When a fiberglass blanket is used to insulate the walls of an unventilated crawlspace, it is sometimes necessary to attach wood furring strips to the walls by
nailing or bonding. The insulation can then be stapled or tacked into place. Alternatively, the insulation can be fastened to the sill plate and draped down
the wall. You should continue the insulation over the floor of the crawl space for about two feet on top of the required ground vapor retarder. Because the
insulation will be exposed, be sure to use either an unfaced product or one with the appropriate flame spread rating. When rigid foam insulation boards are
used to insulate the walls of an unventilated crawlspace, they can be bonded to the wall using recommended adhesives. Because the insulation will be
exposed, be sure to check the local fire codes and the flame-spread rating of the insulation product. If you live in an area prone to termite damage, check
with a pest control professional to see if you need to provide for termite inspections
If you are concerned are need assistance with any of the above issues - now is the time to contact your professional Houston home inspector by web
request at: www.atexinspects.com
or by phone at 281-216-1171.
SITE MAP
an Home Energy Audit or home maintenance inspection on your new or exist Houston area home to start saving money from energy drains in your Houston
home. We provide thorough Energy Audits in Galveston, Katy, Spring, Richmond, Jacinto City, Pasadena, Santa Fe, Seabrook and all the greater Houston
surrounding area.
Where and How Much Insulation Is Needed In My Houston Home?
Adding more insulation where you already have some, such as in an attic, will save home energy. You can save even greater amounts of energy if you
install insulation into places in your home that have never been insulated. Which building spaces should be insulated, these might include an uninsulated
floor over a garage or crawlspace, or a wall that separates a room from the attic.
As your Houston home inspector we will include an insulation check as a routine part of an energy audit or full service home inspection. For information
about Houston home energy audits or Houston home inspection services, contact us at ATEX Inspects at 281-216-1171. State energy offices are another
valuable resource for information. An energy audit of your house will identify the amount of insulation you have and need, and will likely recommend other
improvements as well. If you don't have someone inspect your home, you'll need to find out how much insulation you already have.
This recommendation balances future home utility bill savings against the current cost of installing insulation. So the amount of insulation you need
depends on your climate and heating fuel(gas, oil, electricity), and whether or not you have an air conditioner.
How Much Insulation Does my Houston Home Already Have?
Look into your attic. We start with the attic because it is usually easy to add insulation to an attic. Look into your walls. It is difficult to add insulation to
existing walls unless:
You are planning to add new siding to your Houston house, or you plan to finish unfinished space like a bonus room. If so, you need to know whether the
exterior walls are already insulated or not. One method is to use an electrical outlet on the wall, but first be sure to turn off the power to the outlet. Then
remove the cover plate and shine a flashlight into the crack around the outlet box. You should be able to see whether or not insulation is in the wall. Also,
you should check separate outlets on the first and second floor, and in old and new parts of the house, because wall insulation in one wall doesn't
necessarily mean that it's everywhere in the house. An alternative to checking through electrical outlets is to remove and then replace a small section of the
exterior siding.
Look under your floors. Look at the underside of any floor over an unheated space like a garage or crawl spaces. Inspect and measure the thickness of any
insulation you find there. It will most likely be a fiberglass batt, so multiply the thickness in inches by 3.2 to find out the R-value (or the R-value might be
visible on a product label). If the insulation is a foam board or sprayed-on foam, use any visible label information or multiply the thickness in inches by 5 to
estimate the R-value.
Look at your ductwork. Don't overlook another area in your Houston home where energy can be saved - the ductwork of the heating and air- conditioning
system. If the ducts of your heating or air-conditioning system run through unheated or uncooled spaces in your home, such as attic or crawl spaces, then
the ducts should be insulated. First check the ductwork for air leaks. Repair leaking joints first with mechanical fasteners, then seal any remaining leaks
with water-soluble mastic and embedded fiber glass mesh. Never use gray cloth duct tape because it degrades, cracks, and loses its bond with age. If a
joint has to be accessible for future maintenance, use pressure- or heat-sensitive aluminum foil tape. Then wrap the ducts with duct wrap insulation of R-6
with a vapor retarder facing on the outer side. All joints where sections of insulation meet should have overlapped facings and be tightly sealed with fiber
glass tape; but avoid compressing the insulation, thus reducing its thickness and R-value.
Return air ducts are often located inside the heated portion of the house where they don't need to be insulated, but they should still be sealed off from air
passageways that connect to unheated areas. Drywall- to-ductwork connections should be inspected because they are often poor (or nonexistent) and lead
to unwanted air flows through wall cavities. If the return air ducts are located in an unconditioned part of the building, they should be insulated.
Look at your pipes. If water pipes run through unheated or uncooled spaces in your home, such as attic or crawl spaces, then the pipes should be
insulated.
Home Air Sealing
Air sealing is important, not only because drafts are uncomfortable, but also because air leaks carry both moisture and energy, usually in the direction you
don't want. For example, air leaks can carry hot humid outdoor air into your house in the summer, or can carry warm moist air from a bathroom into the attic
in the winter.
Most Houston homeowners are aware that air leaks into and out of their houses through small openings around doors and window frames and through
fireplaces and chimneys. Air also enters the living space from other unheated parts of the house, such as attics, basements, or crawl spaces. The air
travels through:
- any openings or cracks where two walls meet, where the wall meets the ceiling, or near interior door frames;
- gaps around electrical outlets, switch boxes, and recessed fixtures;
- gaps behind recessed cabinets, and furred or false ceilings such as kitchen or bathroom soffits;
- gaps around attic access hatches and pull-down stairs;
- behind bath tubs and shower stall units;
- through floor cavities of finished attics adjacent to unconditioned attic spaces;
- utility chase ways for ducts, etc, and
- plumbing and electrical wiring penetrations.
Since many of these leakage paths are driven by the tendency for warm air to rise and cool air to fall, the attic is often the best place to stop them. It's
important to stop these leaks before adding attic insulation because the insulation may hide them and make them less accessible. Usually, the attic
insulation itself will not stop these leaks and you won't save as much as you expect because of the air flowing through or around the insulation.
We talk about moisture control in an insulation fact sheet because wet insulation doesn't work well. Also, insulation is an important part of your building
envelope system, and all parts of that system must work together to keep moisture from causing damage to the structure or being health hazards to the
occupants. For example, mold and mildew grow in moist areas, causing allergic reactions and damaging buildings.
Insulation Installation in your older Houston Home, the Retrofit Challenges
Whether you install the home insulation yourself or have it done by a contractor, it is a good idea to educate yourself about proper installation methods
because an improper installation can reduce your energy savings.
Also, if your Houston house is very old, you may want to have an electrician check to see if:
- the electrical insulation on your wiring is degraded,
- the wires are overloaded, or
- knob and tube wiring was used (often found in homes built before 1940).
that could cause the wires to overheat. THIS IS FOR FIRE SAFETY. The National Electric Code forbids the installation of loose, rolled, or foam-in-place
insulation around knob and tube wiring.
Adding thermal insulation to the ceiling or walls of a mobile home is complex and usually requires installation by specialists.
If adding insulation over existing insulation, do NOT use a vapor barrier between the two layers!
Attics
On unfinished attic floors, work from the perimeter toward the attic door. Be careful about where you step in the attic. Walk only on the joists so that you
won't fall through the drywall ceiling. You may need to place walking boards across the tops of the joists to make the job easier. Remember that it is
important to seal up air leaks between your living space and the attic before adding insulation in your attic.
Installing batts and rolls in attics is fairly easy, but doing it right is very important. Use unfaced batts, especially if re insulating over existing insulation. If
there is not any insulation in your attic, fit the insulation between the joists. If the existing insulation is near or above the top of the joists, it is a good idea to
place the new batts perpendicular to the old ones because that will help to cover the tops of the joists themselves and reduce thermal bridging through the
frame. Also, be sure to insulate the trap or access door. Although the area of the door is small, an uninsulated attic door will reduce energy savings
substantially.
In some Houston houses, it is easier to get complete coverage of the attic floor with blown-in loose-fill insulation. It is best to hire an insulation contractor for
this job. Loose-fill insulation must be prevented from shifting into vents or from contacting heat-producing equipment (such as recessed lighting fixtures).
Block off those areas with baffles or retainers to hold the loose-fill insulation in place.
When you stack new insulation on top of existing attic insulation, the existing insulation is compressed a small amount. This will slightly decrease the R-
value of the existing insulation. This effect is most important if the new insulation is more dense than the old insulation. You can compensate for this
stacking effect and achieve the desired total R-value by adding about one extra inch of insulation if the old insulation is fiber glass, or about 1/2 inch if the
old insulation is rock wool or cellulose.
Reflective Systems are installed in a manner similar to placing batts and blankets. Proper installation is very important if the insulation is to be effective.
Study and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Often, reflective insulation materials have flanges that are to be stapled to joists. Since reflective foil will
conduct electricity, avoid making contact with any bare electrical wiring.
Radiant barriers may be installed in attics in several configurations. The radiant barrier is most often attached near the roof, to the bottom surface of the
attic truss chords or to the rafter framing. Do not lay a radiant barrier on top of your insulation or on the attic floor because it will soon be covered with dust
and will not work.
If your Houston home's attic has NO insulation, you may decide to insulate the underside of the roof instead of the attic floor. (This option is more often
used in new houses and is described in Design Option: ATTIC VENTILATION OR A CATHEDRALIZED ATTIC). If you choose the cathedralized attic
approach, all attic vents must be sealed. Spray-foam is then often used to insulate the underside of the roof sheathing. If batts are used for this purpose,
they must be secured in a manner similar to that described below for insulating under floors. It is best to hire an insulation contractor with experience in this
type of installation for this job.
Walls
Installing insulation in the cavity of exterior walls is difficult. However, when new siding is to be installed, it is a good idea to consider adding thermal
insulation under the new siding. The Retrofit Best Practices Guide provides useful information about adding insulation when you remodel the outside of
your house. It usually requires the services of a contractor who has special equipment for blowing loose-fill insulation into the cavity through small holes cut
through the sidewall, which later are closed.
It is sometimes feasible to install rigid insulation on the outdoor side of masonry sidewalls such as concrete block or poured concrete. However, if that is not
an option, you can use rigid insulation boards or batts to insulate the interior of masonry walls. To install boards, wood furring strips should be fastened to
the wall first. These strips provide a nailing base for attaching interior finishes over the insulation. Fire safety codes require that a gypsum board finish, at
least 1/2 inch thick, be placed over plastic foam insulation. The gypsum board must be attached to the wood furring strips or underlying masonry using nails
or screws.
The first-floor band joist may be accessible from the basement or crawlspace.
Floors and Crawl Spaces
If you have a floor over a crawlspace, you can either:
Insulate the underside of the floor and ventilate the crawlspace, or Leave the floor uninsulated and insulate the walls of an unventilated crawlspace. When
batts or rolls are used on the underside of a floor above an unheated crawlspace or basement, fit the insulation between the beams or joists and push it up
against the floor overhead as securely as possible without excessive compaction of the insulation. The insulation can be held in place, either by tacking
chicken wire (poultry netting) to the edges of the joist, or with snap-in wire holders. Batts and rolls must be cut and fit around cross-bracing between floor
joists or any other obstructions. Strips of insulation may be cut off and stuffed into tight spaces by hand. Don't forget to place insulation against the
perimeter that rests on the sill plate. If you insulate above an unheated crawlspace or basement, you will also need to insulate any ducts or pipes running
through this space. Otherwise, pipes could freeze and burst during cold weather.
Reflective Systems are installed in a manner similar to placing batts. Proper installation is very important if the insulation is to be effective. Study and
follow the manufacturer's instructions. Often, reflective insulation materials have flanges that are to be stapled to floor joists. Since reflective foil will conduct
electricity, one must avoid making contact with any bare electrical wiring.
Spray-foam can be used to insulate the underside of a floor. The spray foam can do a good job of filling in the space around wires and other obstructions
and in filling any oddly-shaped areas. It is best to hire an insulation contractor with experience in this type of installation.
When a fiberglass blanket is used to insulate the walls of an unventilated crawlspace, it is sometimes necessary to attach wood furring strips to the walls by
nailing or bonding. The insulation can then be stapled or tacked into place. Alternatively, the insulation can be fastened to the sill plate and draped down
the wall. You should continue the insulation over the floor of the crawl space for about two feet on top of the required ground vapor retarder. Because the
insulation will be exposed, be sure to use either an unfaced product or one with the appropriate flame spread rating. When rigid foam insulation boards are
used to insulate the walls of an unventilated crawlspace, they can be bonded to the wall using recommended adhesives. Because the insulation will be
exposed, be sure to check the local fire codes and the flame-spread rating of the insulation product. If you live in an area prone to termite damage, check
with a pest control professional to see if you need to provide for termite inspections
If you are concerned are need assistance with any of the above issues - now is the time to contact your professional Houston home inspector by web
request at: www.atexinspects.com
or by phone at 281-216-1171.
SITE MAP
| General Insulation Tips To Help You Save Money With Energy Cost In Your Houston Home Or Commercial Real Estate |