An inspection of accessible roof systems and surfaces is performed. Unsafe roof surfaces are observed from ground level or
from a ladder. If abnormalities in the roof surface are noticed the inspector may walk on some roof surfaces to better evaluate it's
condition.
Common abnormalities the inspector looks for are:
-Trees impinging on the roof, causing raking of the roof surface.
-Flashing that has lifted or separated from the roof line which can cause water penetration.
-Visible nail heads and staples that may be exposed to the weather which could cause them to rust and create leaks.
-Gutters that are not properly secured or sloped and free of debris.
-Wavy roof decking or other indications that the roof structure is not properly supported.
-New roof layers over old roofs, such as wood shingles or too many layers of composition shingles.
-Any lifted, damaged or missing shingles will be noted.
-Improper sloping of roofs that will not shed rain water.
-Missing or improperly secured drip edges.
NEW HOME ROOF LEAKS
Even a New Home can Develop a Leaking Roof:
You undoubtedly expect many things when you move into a new home. Fresh paint, trouble-free plumbing, new fixtures and a dry
environment are surely high on the list. But you might be surprised how many new homes develop roof leaks in a very short
amount of time. Unless you have nerves of steel and a tall ladder, I doubt you will have the chance to get up and inspect your
roof during the walk-through inspection. You might simply hope the roof is OK.
But it is possible to inspect your roof. You can hire an independent roofer or a certified whole-house inspector to check out things
you can't easily see. This individual should have the equipment and the experience to quickly see if the roof and all of its
components are installed correctly.
Perhaps the most important parts of your new house's roof are its flashings. A flashing is a transitional roofing material. Flashings
connect roofing materials such as shingles, slate, tile and rubber roofing to things that are not part of the roof. Anytime an object
abuts a roof or protrudes through a roof, you will find flashings. Ninety percent of all roof leaks originate at flashings. You must
make certain your builder's roofer has installed your flashings expertly.
Flashing material can be made from many things, including tin, copper, galvanized steel, lead, aluminum and even rubber. The
most common place a homeowner sees flashing is at the base of a chimney where it connects to the roof. Frequently you will
see triangular pieces of metal that are actually mortared into the chimney. These are just one part of a complex set of metal
pieces that weave into the roofing materials and the masonry chimney to form a watertight connection. Another common flashing
location is anywhere a roof butts up next to a wall. For example, your new home might have a single-story garage connected to a
two-story house. Look closely where the shingles touch the house and you should see flashings.
If the house has some sort of wood or vinyl siding, these siding materials will lap over the metal flashings. This method of
construction produces leak-free performance as well.
A plumbing vent pipe also has a simple flashing that slides down over the pipe that sticks up through the roof. Typically, newer
flashings of this type are equipped with a rubber collar that fits tightly around the circular plumbing vent pipe.
Certain skylights have factory-built flashing kits that are superb when installed according to instructions. They will keep out the
worst driving rain and keep any room leak-free. These factory-built flashings require no soldering or caulk to provide years of
leak-free performance. I have five of them on my own home and have installed hundreds of others.
Tin-coated steel is available in different weights, The 40-pound tin has more tin coating on the steel and should be used if at all
possible.
Be sure your builder does not use aluminum flashing material in contact with any masonry walls or chimneys. The alkaline
chemicals in the masonry can corrode the aluminum over time. Aluminum is also very difficult to solder or weld.
OLDER EXISTING ROOF LEAKS
Most Common Roof Leak Locations in Older Existing Roofs:
The vast majority of roof coverings operate using the principal of gravity. This can be a big help in locating a leak source.
However, horizontal roof boards can trick you. A leak may actually be eight to 10 feet sideways from where you see the wet
ceiling or spot in the attic.
Finding the source of some leaks is easy. Others will require detective work and possibly a garden hose and an inside spotter. If
you don't feel comfortable on a roof, you will have to find an honest roofer to assist you. Sometimes this can be as hard as finding
the smallest leak! Here are some tips that may help you find a pesky roof leak:
The Field of Shingles
If your roof is older, it is possible that the leak is within the roof field. This means the expanse of shingles, slate, shakes,
whatever. If your roof is asphalt, then you can walk around with ease. Other materials such as slate, concrete tile or clay tile may
not be so forgiving. You can crack roofing if you walk on it, so be careful. With regular shingles, look at the tops of the vertical
knockouts. Look for missing colored granules. Look for cracks. Possibly a nail has backed itself out of the roof sheathing. Simply
take your time and hunt.
Valleys
A valley is a line where two roof planes intersect. Here in Cincinnati we use a metal flashing in the valleys. Some areas use rolled
roofing. Other places simply lace the shingles together. Valleys can be big problems if you do not trim the shingles correctly.
When you trim a shingle for a valley you end up with a chisel point on the end of the shingle. If a second cut is not made to make
this point like an arrow point, then water can travel along the top of the shingle and find its way inside your house. The shingle
wrapper tells you how to make this simple second cut.
Head Wall Flashings
Some roofs stop at a vertical wall. A metal flashing must be in place to direct water streaming down the wall away from the
stopping point of the shingles. This flashing may be behind wood siding or in front of a brick wall. The flashing should extend over
the shingles at least three inches. If the wall is brick or other masonry, the flashing must bend and extend one inch into a mortar
joint. Tar, caulk or roofing cement should never be used in conjunction with these materials. If you see them, it is a sign that
someone tried to patch a leak!
Wall Step Flashing
Some roof leaks happen at step flashings. You find these flashings where a roof climbs alongside a vertical wall. As each row of
shingles is laid, a step flashing is installed over the shingle next to the wall. Part of the flashing turns up on the wall and the other
portion gets covered by the next row of shingles. Look for rust or holes in these flashings. In reality, if all is well, you will be able
to see only the smallest portion of these flashings.
Chimneys
These devils are the source of many a leak. Chimneys contain four different types of flashing. All must be right or you will have a
leak. Plus, the counter flashing that goes into the brick mortar joint must be right. A hairline crack above the flashing can allow
vast amounts of water to run behind the flashings. Look for soldered corners of flashing that might have broken or have holes. Do
not use caulk to repair these flashings!
Plumbing Vent Flashings
Newer vent flashings are a concern of mine. Many of these incorporate a rubber seal with an aluminum flashing. The rubber can
fail in as little as 10 to 15 years. Look for cracked rubber around the plumbing pipe. The flashing should dive up and under the
shingles that extend up roof from the middle of the plumbing vent. The bottom half of the flashing should be exposed and actually
cover the shingles.
Furnace or B-Vent Flashing
These flashings are basically identical to plumbing vent flashings. However, they sometimes have a metal storm collar. These
simply fit tightly around the vertical pipe that exits the roof. If they become loose, the storm collars can cause leaks.
Ice Dam Leaks
Ice dam leaks plague people in the snow belt. These leaks can happen even if everything on your roof is just fine! Ice dams block
the natural flow of water down a roof. The water begins to back up under flashings, shingles, tar paper, etc. Once water begins to
flow into the house, it can drip for days. The only means of prevention is to install membranes under the roofing. The membranes
won't stop the ice but will stop water leaks if installed properly.
Wind Blown Rain Leaks
Wind driven rain can also be a major problem. Once again, you could actually have a good roof and wind will drive water up and
under your roofing materials. The only lines of defense are tar paper and the ice dam membranes.
If you have metal valleys, you may want to hem the edges. This means that the hidden edges of the valley actual have a 180
degree bend. This creates a channel that directs wind blown rain back to the bottom of the valley.
Roofing cement under shingles on the edges of roofs that face the wind are also a good idea. Don't underestimate the power of a
70 mph sustained wind-driven rain.
Non-Roof Leaks!
Sometimes you think you have a roof leak when in fact the roof is fine. Attic condensation is a prime example. High humidity can
cause condensation and "rain" to fall in your attic. It can also make the underside of the roof sheathing look wet. You think you
have a leak instead.
Chimney crowns can develop cracks. The inside surface of the chimney gets discolored or the plaster bubbles. You think a roof
leak is the cause.
Siding can be missing above a roof. This can cause water to enter behind head flashings. Be a good gumshoe and snoop around
for the leaks!
from a ladder. If abnormalities in the roof surface are noticed the inspector may walk on some roof surfaces to better evaluate it's
condition.
Common abnormalities the inspector looks for are:
-Trees impinging on the roof, causing raking of the roof surface.
-Flashing that has lifted or separated from the roof line which can cause water penetration.
-Visible nail heads and staples that may be exposed to the weather which could cause them to rust and create leaks.
-Gutters that are not properly secured or sloped and free of debris.
-Wavy roof decking or other indications that the roof structure is not properly supported.
-New roof layers over old roofs, such as wood shingles or too many layers of composition shingles.
-Any lifted, damaged or missing shingles will be noted.
-Improper sloping of roofs that will not shed rain water.
-Missing or improperly secured drip edges.
NEW HOME ROOF LEAKS
Even a New Home can Develop a Leaking Roof:
You undoubtedly expect many things when you move into a new home. Fresh paint, trouble-free plumbing, new fixtures and a dry
environment are surely high on the list. But you might be surprised how many new homes develop roof leaks in a very short
amount of time. Unless you have nerves of steel and a tall ladder, I doubt you will have the chance to get up and inspect your
roof during the walk-through inspection. You might simply hope the roof is OK.
But it is possible to inspect your roof. You can hire an independent roofer or a certified whole-house inspector to check out things
you can't easily see. This individual should have the equipment and the experience to quickly see if the roof and all of its
components are installed correctly.
Perhaps the most important parts of your new house's roof are its flashings. A flashing is a transitional roofing material. Flashings
connect roofing materials such as shingles, slate, tile and rubber roofing to things that are not part of the roof. Anytime an object
abuts a roof or protrudes through a roof, you will find flashings. Ninety percent of all roof leaks originate at flashings. You must
make certain your builder's roofer has installed your flashings expertly.
Flashing material can be made from many things, including tin, copper, galvanized steel, lead, aluminum and even rubber. The
most common place a homeowner sees flashing is at the base of a chimney where it connects to the roof. Frequently you will
see triangular pieces of metal that are actually mortared into the chimney. These are just one part of a complex set of metal
pieces that weave into the roofing materials and the masonry chimney to form a watertight connection. Another common flashing
location is anywhere a roof butts up next to a wall. For example, your new home might have a single-story garage connected to a
two-story house. Look closely where the shingles touch the house and you should see flashings.
If the house has some sort of wood or vinyl siding, these siding materials will lap over the metal flashings. This method of
construction produces leak-free performance as well.
A plumbing vent pipe also has a simple flashing that slides down over the pipe that sticks up through the roof. Typically, newer
flashings of this type are equipped with a rubber collar that fits tightly around the circular plumbing vent pipe.
Certain skylights have factory-built flashing kits that are superb when installed according to instructions. They will keep out the
worst driving rain and keep any room leak-free. These factory-built flashings require no soldering or caulk to provide years of
leak-free performance. I have five of them on my own home and have installed hundreds of others.
Tin-coated steel is available in different weights, The 40-pound tin has more tin coating on the steel and should be used if at all
possible.
Be sure your builder does not use aluminum flashing material in contact with any masonry walls or chimneys. The alkaline
chemicals in the masonry can corrode the aluminum over time. Aluminum is also very difficult to solder or weld.
OLDER EXISTING ROOF LEAKS
Most Common Roof Leak Locations in Older Existing Roofs:
The vast majority of roof coverings operate using the principal of gravity. This can be a big help in locating a leak source.
However, horizontal roof boards can trick you. A leak may actually be eight to 10 feet sideways from where you see the wet
ceiling or spot in the attic.
Finding the source of some leaks is easy. Others will require detective work and possibly a garden hose and an inside spotter. If
you don't feel comfortable on a roof, you will have to find an honest roofer to assist you. Sometimes this can be as hard as finding
the smallest leak! Here are some tips that may help you find a pesky roof leak:
The Field of Shingles
If your roof is older, it is possible that the leak is within the roof field. This means the expanse of shingles, slate, shakes,
whatever. If your roof is asphalt, then you can walk around with ease. Other materials such as slate, concrete tile or clay tile may
not be so forgiving. You can crack roofing if you walk on it, so be careful. With regular shingles, look at the tops of the vertical
knockouts. Look for missing colored granules. Look for cracks. Possibly a nail has backed itself out of the roof sheathing. Simply
take your time and hunt.
Valleys
A valley is a line where two roof planes intersect. Here in Cincinnati we use a metal flashing in the valleys. Some areas use rolled
roofing. Other places simply lace the shingles together. Valleys can be big problems if you do not trim the shingles correctly.
When you trim a shingle for a valley you end up with a chisel point on the end of the shingle. If a second cut is not made to make
this point like an arrow point, then water can travel along the top of the shingle and find its way inside your house. The shingle
wrapper tells you how to make this simple second cut.
Head Wall Flashings
Some roofs stop at a vertical wall. A metal flashing must be in place to direct water streaming down the wall away from the
stopping point of the shingles. This flashing may be behind wood siding or in front of a brick wall. The flashing should extend over
the shingles at least three inches. If the wall is brick or other masonry, the flashing must bend and extend one inch into a mortar
joint. Tar, caulk or roofing cement should never be used in conjunction with these materials. If you see them, it is a sign that
someone tried to patch a leak!
Wall Step Flashing
Some roof leaks happen at step flashings. You find these flashings where a roof climbs alongside a vertical wall. As each row of
shingles is laid, a step flashing is installed over the shingle next to the wall. Part of the flashing turns up on the wall and the other
portion gets covered by the next row of shingles. Look for rust or holes in these flashings. In reality, if all is well, you will be able
to see only the smallest portion of these flashings.
Chimneys
These devils are the source of many a leak. Chimneys contain four different types of flashing. All must be right or you will have a
leak. Plus, the counter flashing that goes into the brick mortar joint must be right. A hairline crack above the flashing can allow
vast amounts of water to run behind the flashings. Look for soldered corners of flashing that might have broken or have holes. Do
not use caulk to repair these flashings!
Plumbing Vent Flashings
Newer vent flashings are a concern of mine. Many of these incorporate a rubber seal with an aluminum flashing. The rubber can
fail in as little as 10 to 15 years. Look for cracked rubber around the plumbing pipe. The flashing should dive up and under the
shingles that extend up roof from the middle of the plumbing vent. The bottom half of the flashing should be exposed and actually
cover the shingles.
Furnace or B-Vent Flashing
These flashings are basically identical to plumbing vent flashings. However, they sometimes have a metal storm collar. These
simply fit tightly around the vertical pipe that exits the roof. If they become loose, the storm collars can cause leaks.
Ice Dam Leaks
Ice dam leaks plague people in the snow belt. These leaks can happen even if everything on your roof is just fine! Ice dams block
the natural flow of water down a roof. The water begins to back up under flashings, shingles, tar paper, etc. Once water begins to
flow into the house, it can drip for days. The only means of prevention is to install membranes under the roofing. The membranes
won't stop the ice but will stop water leaks if installed properly.
Wind Blown Rain Leaks
Wind driven rain can also be a major problem. Once again, you could actually have a good roof and wind will drive water up and
under your roofing materials. The only lines of defense are tar paper and the ice dam membranes.
If you have metal valleys, you may want to hem the edges. This means that the hidden edges of the valley actual have a 180
degree bend. This creates a channel that directs wind blown rain back to the bottom of the valley.
Roofing cement under shingles on the edges of roofs that face the wind are also a good idea. Don't underestimate the power of a
70 mph sustained wind-driven rain.
Non-Roof Leaks!
Sometimes you think you have a roof leak when in fact the roof is fine. Attic condensation is a prime example. High humidity can
cause condensation and "rain" to fall in your attic. It can also make the underside of the roof sheathing look wet. You think you
have a leak instead.
Chimney crowns can develop cracks. The inside surface of the chimney gets discolored or the plaster bubbles. You think a roof
leak is the cause.
Siding can be missing above a roof. This can cause water to enter behind head flashings. Be a good gumshoe and snoop around
for the leaks!
| Roof Leaks In Your New or Existing Houston Home |
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